By Melissa ClarkThe New York Times

Meatballs are savory, versatile and easy, but they are definitely not what comes to mind when I think of “seasonal cooking.”

Maybe it is their long-term relationship with marinara sauce and spaghetti. Hearty and crowd-pleasing, yes. Buoyant and summery, not so much.

But these meatballs turn everything on its head.

With fresh basil, ground cumin and ginger, they are heady and complex. But it is the quick pan sauce that really sets them apart. The combination of ripe peaches and plenty of lime juice gives them a tangy brightness that is refreshing enough for even the most sultry late-summer nights, along with all the seasonal credibility they could ever need.

You can make the meatballs with any kind of ground meat. Even vegan meat will work quite well. Pork, with its brawny, rich flavor, is my favorite, with dark meat turkey or chicken as close runners-up.

Really, it is the panful of peach drippings that makes this dish shine. So, it is worth buying the fruit ahead of time, and letting it soften and sweeten for a few days. Or, if you already have a surfeit of bruised, overripe fruit leaking nectar all over your counter, this is the recipe for you.

Just cut out any obviously browned spots before throwing the rest of the peach flesh into the skillet, where it will dissolve amid a bath of wine and the aromatic drippings from the meatballs to create the sauce.