By Melissa Clark, The New York Times

Of all the comforting, carb-heavy starches of the kitchen, potatoes rarely make it to the center of the plate. Unlike rice and pasta, which often take the starring role in main courses, potatoes are relegated to the sidelines — usually as fluffy fleshed arm candy to some meaty protein hogging the limelight.

But to me, a crackly roasted potato is a worthy focus of any meal, especially when it’s drenched in a caper- and anchovy-flecked brown butter and topped with canned tuna.

In a way, it’s very similar to one of my go-to pasta dishes. But instead of al dente pasta, it’s the potato’s golden, crunchy skin that gives the dish its texture. (It also adds an earthy note to all the other more saline flavors.)

For this dish, I like fingerling potatoes best. They have slightly thicker skins that stand up to roasting better than, say, thin-skinned Yukon golds. But use whatever potatoes you’ve got. Even sweet potatoes would be excellent, giving a honeyed contrast next to all that anchovy and garlic pungency.

To get roasted potatoes with the most downy interiors and crispiest skin, I boil them until they’re thoroughly soft, offering absolutely no resistance when you plunge in a fork.