My kitchen counter sports 14 salts from 12 different regions around the world, 15 extra virgin olive oils from seven countries (Spain’s six exceed Italy’s three), several vinegars from here and there, and six honeys from four countries.

Variety is the spice of life.

I worry not that the salts will spoil, nor that the vinegars need to be used up quickly. Concern over oxidation of the olive oils keeps me vigilant. (None is more than 2 years old, but that’s already pushing it.)

But the honeys vex me. Though purported to be spoil-proof (edible honey has been found in pharaonic tombs), this favorite among my sweets may never rot but it certainly changes to my disliking.

After a mere few weeks, my raw, unfiltered, unpasteurized honeys crystallize into a zillion shards that go “crunch” in the morning and, sorry, that is too much texture and noise at an early hour. Some people say that they tolerate crystallized honey because “that way, it is more spreadable, less messy too, like peanut butter.”

I understand that; I just dislike the shards once the spread hits my tongue.

Heating crystallized honey, say in a microwave or with the jar in just-boiled water, will “reliquefy” it, sure. Chances are, though, that the honey will turn out a tad too runny or dangerously unevenly hot, in the case of the microwave. High heat also denigrates or destroys the honey’s enzymes, vitamins and beneficial bacteria.

How much better to slowly and gently heat those shards away, say by the sunlight trapped on the household side of a south-facing window. But that takes two, perhaps three days. Time for that?

Then how much better is it to restabilize the honey into a form called creamed or whipped honey (sometimes also called “honey butter,” though no milk butter plays a role).

Note, creamed or whipped honey is not honey that actually has been creamed or whipped. Got that? No cake batter beaters, no arm-busting whisking. These names are misnomers, really, because whipped or creamed honey is honey that, in fact, has been recrystallized.

However, the crystallization is steady and controlled, so that the crystals are much, much smaller than the shard-like crystals of everyday crystallized honey. Plus, the thick, smooth texture, the consistency of creamed or whipped honey is the same throughout the jar. Like peanut butter.