By Yewande Komolafe, The New York Times

Tofu’s versatility is no secret, but to embrace its many uses is an exquisite thing — it can be pan-fried, grilled, blended into spreads and dressings, or tossed in a smoker for a few hours. Those who know tofu well understand it as an ingredient that is subtle and ever-so-slightly sweet, a willing canvas for flavors or a base for them to intermingle.

The joy of tofu is what should keep us returning to it: We should be endlessly excited about it. How many ingredients are as multifaceted?