Fall came early this year in New York. The cool, crisp nights took me by surprise, arriving well before I could unearth any sweaters to prepare for the chill.

When it came to dinner, it felt the same. The fridge was stuffed with a bounty of late summer spinach, ready to be whipped up into one of the light, warm weather meals I’d been cooking lately. But the temperature demanded something heartier and cozier, an edible analogue of those sweaters still packed away in boxes in the basement.

A skillet full of orzo, cooked in savory broth and showered with feta for creaminess and tang, was just the thing to warm my family up. And by adding the mound of spinach I already had on hand, I could keep the dish from tipping into the kind of carbohydrate-heavy meals winter will inevitably bring.

Added bonus: It could all be made in one skillet, and it ends up as appealing as risotto, but without all the stirring.