If you feel the desire for a multiday bread-baking project, but chocolate babkas are too sweet, and crusty sourdoughs, too needy, I’ve got a loaf for you. It’s a savory, ricotta-filled babka that’s absorbing and meditative, but not at all fussy. Simply tearing the warm, garlic-scented bread with your hands will make procuring the yeast and flour well worth the search. And slices make for the best grilled cheese sandwiches, ever.

The difference between this babka dough and other savory bread doughs, like focaccia or pizza dough, is that babka is softer, eggier and a whole lot more buttery. But that same richness means it takes its time to rise, especially if the room is cool.

Your oven with the light turned on is an ideal place to let the dough rise. Or, if that’s filled with yet another banana bread or a big lasagna, pick any warm, draft-free spot.